Making the Helix Antenna

Summary

The helix antenna will be what we use to communicate with the balloon during it’s ascent.

Materials

Materials are:-

Item Quantity Notes
100mm PVC Pipe 1 metre
A4 Paper 4 pieces
2mm solid Copper wire 3 metres
Aluminum sheet 1mm thick 50x50cm
Thin plywood 5mm sheet of wood
Pipe Diameter reducer Created from wood, with a 1inch hole in centre for wooden rod
Wooden rod 1.2 metre 1inch
RG-227U cable 15cm
Male RP-SMA connector 1
Copper Sheet 3cm x 6cm
Hot-Glue Gun 1 Lots of glue sticks
Solder 20cm
3mm metal screws 4 Used to fasten ground plane on to plywood
Copper plate 100mm x 100mm x 0.5mm
Fibreglass Kit Rougly 4 strips, 6cm wide – total area 0.1m^2
4mm metal screws 4 Used to fix wooden reducer to PVC pipe
Telescope Tripod 1 Used Skywatcher 150mm tripod
Screws – 60mm x 1/4 inch 2 Used to mount wooden rod to the tripod.
1/16 bolt and nut 2 Used to attach ground plane to the Antenna tube

Design Parameters

We obtained details on the design from a number of sites. We ultimately arrived at the following dimensions:-

Parameter Value Notes
Gain 12.82 Theoretical gain
Wavelength Reflector 33.236mm
Circumference 357.29mm Equiv diameter of ~113.73mm
Spacing between turns 81.17mm
Length of each turn 366.39mm
Length of wire needed 2931.15mm
Antenna Length 649.39mm
Spray adhesive 1 can

NOTE: some calculators said 106cm diameter was the correct value. I think that there is a lot of margin for error in the Helix antenna…i.e. wide bandwidth, so I’m trying not to get too concerned about getting it ‘exactly’ right.

Below is a picture shows the antenna part way through construction.

Helix Antenna partially constructed

Construction

The constructions is broken into 5 stages. These stages are listed as follows:-

  • Creation of helix coil on former
  • Creation of ground plane
  • Mount for Tripod
  • Attachment of ground plane
  • Electronics
  • Tuning

Creation of Helix coil on former

We needed to mark on the PVC pipe where the copper wire should follow. We did this by getting some A4 paper and drawing diagonal lines. The design parameters above dictated the gradient of the lines and the spacing. Special care was taken to ensure right hand ‘coil’ was created. The four A4 sheets were then very carefully stuck on to the PVC tube.  I then used a hot glue gun to hold the copper wire in place as I wrapped it around the tube. This was quite difficult and I found it best to move myself around the tube as I coiled the copper wire on, rather than trying to move the PVC former. (If I turned the PVC tube around, the wire got harder to coil it).

Close up of copper winding on PVC/Paper former

Look closely at the picture above and you will see the hot glue.

Then we fibreglassed the copper wiring in place using 4 strips of fibreglass. We figured we didn’t need to fiberglass the whole tube because:-

  • It is expensive
  • It might change frequency more if we use more
  • It will increase weight of the antenna, putting more strain on the tripod.

Here are a few pictures of the fibreglassing process.

Prep'd antenna ready for resin
Everything ready for fibre glassing.

We needed to solder a copper strip in the first 1/4 wavelength of copper wire. This is done to reduce the impedance of the antenna…bringing from about 130 ohms to approximately 50 ohms. A copper strip 1/16 lambda x 1/4 lambda was cut out. Here, lambda is the wavelength  – c/f = c/902 x e^6 – 33.33cm. A picture of how this was mounted is shown below.

Copper waveguide plate attached to Helix

Creation of Ground plane reflector

We need a ground plane reflector and we make one using some Aluminum sheet. A square with sides 333mm was cut out. Then the corners were trimmed off. This sheet was then mounted to some plywood of slightly larger dimensions. This provides safety as the Al sheet is quite sharp. We then needed to drill a whole allow the mount rod to pass through. This component is attached to the mounting rod using glue.

A picture of this is provided below.

Ground Plane attached to plywood

Tripod Mount

I have a telescope (a 150mm Skywatcher). I noted that I should be able to attach a rod of some description to this, instead of the clamps used to hold the telescope tube. This rod I decided can be attached to the main tube using tube reducers…which are inserted inside the main tube. A picture of these reducers is below.

Reducer fixed with two screws inside PVC Tube

There is a reducer at each end of the PVC tube. Inside the PVC tube is a 1.2 metre length of 25.4mm diameter rod. The rod can wedged into place by rotating the end reducer slightly and tightening up the fixing screws.

The rod is attached to the black bracket on the telescope. This is done using two 60mm bolt/nuts (1/4 inch diameter). A picture of this is shown below.

Attachment of wooden rod to black metal bracket

Attachment of Ground plane

We wanted to attach the ground plane to the 25.4mm wooden tubing. We did this by bringing the wooden reducer right down to the bottom, securing with two screws. Then we put two small 1/16 inch holes in this, dropped two screws down and put these through the ground plane and secured with two nuts. See picture below:-

Red: Screws holding ground plane to tube. Blue: Stops assembly slipping down Rod.

Below is a picture of antenna with ground plane attached to the tripod. Also notice the metal pole with counter-weight.

Antenna mounted to Telescope Tripod with counter weight

As one can imagine, this makes aiming of the antenna a lot easier. (The antennas does weight a lot!)

Electronics

We need to connect the antenna back to the xbee module which is mounted inside a poly- carbonate box. This box is mounted on to the back of the ground plane. This ensures minimal amount of cable between antenna and xBee module….reduced attenuation of signal.

This was accomplished by:-

  • Drilling hole through found plane for cable
  • Attachment of Male RP-SMA connector to end of RG-227U cable
  • Attachment of Xbee module to the ground plane

Pictures will be added later.

Tuning

We are making a SWR meter using a Directional coupler, a microwave diode and few other components. We hope to confirm a perfectly operating antenna!

Testing

A lot of thought is being put into how best to test the antenna. Essentially, we need to find out the range. We will need help from others to do this.

Researching Antennas

Selecting an Antenna

As usual, I underestimated the importance of the antenna and the difficulties involved in selecting what ultimately needs to be a compromise. We can’t have everything! We need to decide upon the antenna for the HAB and the ground antenna.

HAB Air Antenna

What we need out of an antenna

The things to consider are:-

  • Profile – horizontal and vertical – we want to to 360 degress around and require vertical radio to be maximum directly below and still be fairly strong up to 45 degrees and not so strong at the horizontal.
  • Impedance – It needs to match that of the XBee modules which is 50Ohms.
  • The gain – well, this is something we can’t control, because we need sufficient coverage (Profile above). It would be great if we can have a ground plane above the antenna to reduce radiation above the antenna.
  • Bandwidth requirements dictated by XBee is 902MHz to 928MHz

Other considerations

The cable and connectors are also very important because we lose a fair amount of the signal in these components, before it is even radiated.

  • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
  • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
  • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
  • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
  • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
  • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

Where to obtain

The antenna here might do the job. Still investigating this.

    Ground Base Antenna

    It is possible we might be best getting two types of antennas for the ground base station. A:-

    • Yagi
    • A spiral antenna

    We consider what we need in these two antennas separately. I have read that during the initial stages of the flight, when the ground station is under the balloon, the radiation pattern is more circularly polarized. Use of a Yagi in this stage of flight would lead to highs and lows (absence) of signal, whereas a Spiral will be 3db down, but will not lose signal altogether.

    As the HAB moves further away, the radiation coming from the HAB is closer to horizontally polarized, and so we can then employ the YAGI.

    Yagi

    What we need out of an antenna

    The things to consider are:-

    • Profile – Highly directional
    • Impedance to be 50ohms
    • The gain to be as great as possible. (VFT suggested high gain was better and that a lower gain (to increase profile angle) probably wasn’t the best way to go.
    • Horizontally polarized
    • Bandwidth of 900 to 928Mhz


    Other considerations

    • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
    • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
    • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
    • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
    • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
    • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

    Where to obtain

    The antenna here might do the job. Still investigating this.

    Spiral Antenna

    This is sometimes referred to as a Helix antenna.

    What we need out of an antenna

    The things to consider are:-

    • Profile – Rotation
    • Impedance 50ohms
    • The gain needs to be as high as possible.

    Other considerations

    • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
    • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
    • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
    • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
    • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
    • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

    Where to obtain

    I’m considering making this antenna myself. I’ve found a good website that describes how to make a Helix Antenna. It also mentions how to get the impedance close to 50Ohms using about 6 different techniques!! A shop in town has an impedance meter and if push comes to shove, I’ll ask them if they can measure the impedance for me. I’m currently waiting for some 2mm solid copper to arrive.

    Payload Design

    The payload which I refer to here is all the box and all the gadgets we send up at the end of the balloon. It includes all the necessary pieces to ensure that they remain functional at all times. The best way to describe the payload is with some photos and some commentary. Read on.

    The Styrofoam box

    This is a small Styrofoam box that we were very lucky to acquire in a purchase my wife made on the Internet (allergy friendly chocolates). The Styrofoam box is an ex-Broccoli box. It was chosen because the dimensions are almost perfect for fitting all the components and the thickness of the walls is good to allow the cameras to JUST poke out enough.

    The boxes dimensions are:-

    Length: 385mm

    Height: 160mm

    Width: 290mm

    Wall thickness: 20mm

    A few pictures of the box (with components within it) are shown below. You will notice that we have some blue foam inside the box. This is to provide a cushion for the components and to help reduce the chance of water getting to components and to also reduce air flows that might take heat away.

    Styrofoam box with Lid. Take note of wires and camera.
    Styrofoam box with lid off and blue foam removed

    Sensors/Communications Electronics

    This a fairly complicated part of the payload. It consists of several components:-

    • Main electronics polycarbonate box (which is described in another blog)
    • External PCB – used to interconnect the Linksprite camera, the external temperature sensor and the Status LED
    • Xbee antenna cable

    the components are all sandwiched between special water resistant foam-like material purchased from Clarke Rubber and some other foam normally used to make cushions. This material has been chosen because of its ability to cushion the sensitive electronics against knocks, help the payload retain warmth so that the electronics can continue to work at the very high altitudes (30km) it should reach. The foam is very light which is an obvious requirement.

    Below are some pictures:-

    Cutting out foam for the payload
    Part way through the process of making holes in foam to hold payload components.
    Payload components

    The “HackHD” camera

    The HackHD camera (purchased from LittleBirdElectronics) is installed standalone with it’s own 3 x AA battery pack. We purposely kept this separate from the rest of the electronics to reduce chance of failure of all electronic systems. It is shown pictured below:-

    The video camera we use to film the whole mission from the balloon

    We installed a 32GB Class 10 microSD card, the largest size we can install in the camera to give us about 3.5hrs of video footage. We choose Class 10 because we wanted to be sure that the camera could write to the microSD fast enough. The idea with the microSD is that we can start it up just before flight and if we are able to recover the payload, then be able to play the whole launch from a rather good vantage point.

    The Abrasion Jacket

    The styofoam container is a great insulator and is light but it does not have the strength to withstand a long possibly windy flight, the balloon popping. So what we do is put this styrofoam package (with all the electronics within it) into a ‘jacket’ made out of spinnaker cloth (ripstop nylon). This is the same sort of material used in kites, yacht spinnaker sails.

    We are closely following a design described in the document:-

    http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/cusapps/NearSpace1.pdf

    Below are some photos taken during construction:-

    Sewing opposites ends of side piece to create tube
    Attachment of Dacron loop with 1inch ring attached
    Pinning bottom fabric to side tube piece, in preparation for sewing
    Payload in Jacket - the lid still to complete and holes for cameras/antenna

    This jacket provides a means of attaching the nylon rope from the parachute to the payload.