Upgrade of Communications Link

An attempt was made to communicate approximately 15km recently with the xBee’s but unfortunately there was no signal at all. I then drove closer (approximately 9km) and was able to get a signal and was able to retrieve a picture. During the transmission of the picture, the module had to re-download packets, but the image came through successfully without any distortions. This means the corrections to the xmodem libraries and the receiving module xmodem code has fixed up the issues!

I’ve made the decision that I need greater range for the HAB, so I’ve decided to purchase RFD900 modems. I’ve also decided that lugging a laptop around with a virtual operating system installed and trying to use it in the terrible light, connected up to the antenna is not practical and have decided instead to use a different arrangement. I’ve started coding this and it is working extremely well. A diagram showing how the data is ‘moved’ from the High Altitude Balloon and ultimately to the user is shown below.

Flow of data from HAB to Ground Station

I still have to work on the physical setup of these systems (putting in boxes) and connecting together in a reliable manner. Once this is done, I will start conducting some range tests.

Getting Authorisation from CASA

I’ve been in touch with CASA regarding authorisation of the Balloon flight. What I do know is:-

* I need to ensure that the craft, procedures, etc follow procedures outline in the appropriate legislation

* It can take several weeks for authorisation to be provided

* CASA charge for the process. An estimate is provided, the estimated fee is paid and then work is done. For one application it too 3 hours at a rate of $160/hr. This is probably more then the cost of the payload.

CASA were helpful on the phone but came to the realisation that I obviously need to commit a large amount of time to this component, but suspect it will be time well spent.

I downloaded the Legislation (Volume 3 of 4):-

Civil Aviation Safety Regulations 1998
Statutory Rules No. 237, 1998 as amended
made under the
Civil Aviation Act 1988

Civil Aviation Safety Regulations 1998 Statutory Rules No. 237, 1998 as amended made under the Civil Aviation Act 1988

which was file F2013C00316VOL03.pdf and I am interested in sections 101.140 and onwards.

Interpreting the Legislation

Several things to note about the legislation and how this matches with the project.

  • The balloon that I am making is classed as a ‘Medium’ sized balloon.This is because it is less then 6kg weight but the diameter of the balloon will exceed 2 metres. (It will probably get to about 7 metres just before it pops).
  • The balloon is not a zero-pressure balloon and so requires two ways to bring down the payload and two ways to finish the flight. The balloon ‘popping’ on its own is considered to be one way to satisfy both requirements simultaneously. Another way needs to be added to allow bringing the balloon down – preferably manually.

Testing the antennas

Summary

I need to test the antennas to make sure they will function as reasonable as can be expected. I’m secretly hoping that it can comfortably transmit/receive at a distance of at-least 10 km. This is probably realistic, remembering that the range of these XBee transmitters is about 20 km (as per specs).

A picture of the test range is below.

Map showing antenna test distances

Details of the testing is below.

Testing on 16-June-2013

I set up the payload on a stool up the road from where I lived and mum watched over it. It was aligned so that from Taylor point it would be roughly 45 degrees. i.e. minimal loss. Taylor point is 4.5 km away. I was able to get lots of data from the payload while sitting on the beach. I also got 1/4 of an image before it froze. I then waited a few minutes for the payload transmission to give-up…which it did. Then I was able to receive data. I then put the earth station into test mode…it requested test mode and the payload accepted and responded accordingly. This is good. This means that at 4.5 km the communication both ways seems to work relatively well. The next test is from Yorkey’s knob ~8km away.

Testing on 23-June-2013

I set up the payload on a stool up the road from where I lived again…this time left it all by itself. I drove to Yorkeys Yacht club and was able to get some packets from a few rocks, just up from the sand. I wasn’t able to get a picture transfer starting very well.

I then drive around the corner to the top and found a perfect area to test! It was a patch of grass with uninterrupted view back to the hill where the payload was. I was able to get through about one quarter of a line of dots (4 1/2 lines of dots = whole file). So…not able to get an image unfortunately, but a lot better.

When I got home, I found that about 24 minutes after I had set up the payload on the stall, the wind had blown it down. Fortunately the antenna was not damaged. Amazingly I was still able to receive the signal. This suggests a fairly resilient system.

I still need to make file transfers a bit more robust. currently it just stalls…no more dots. I had an idea just was I was leaving that I should enable debugging in the xmodem library. I think I’ll also examining the xmodem code to try and guess where things are playing up and see if there is some retry/timeouts that can be adjusted. Even though I have my sights on RFS900 modem, I think xmodem enhancements are a good thing to look at.

Attaching CloverLeaf Antenna to the Payload

Discussion

Much thought was put into how to connect the Cloverleaf antenna to the payload….attachment of the antenna is more of an after thought unfortunately. I’m thinking I probably should have somehow ensured this could have been put inside the box.

Anyhow…needed to engineer a suitable method of connecting the antenna to the payload.

Requirements

I knew that I needed to be careful not to include metallic objects with the install of the antenna. I was wanted to keep the attachment light, but still secure. The cloverleaf is a fairly ‘fragile’ antenna. Any bending of the conductors will result in reduced performance. I always wanted the antenna to point down. The antenna can flop around a bit…remember the whole payload will move around a bit from winds.

The Solution

Eventually it was decided to create some fibreglass structure and attach it to the payload jacket using Velcro.

Construction

Steps are below:-

  • I used blue A4 card to construct a former. This was folded and trimmed to suit.
  • I then used kids glue to glue the fibre-glass mesh to the blue paper.
  • Then I trimmed off excess  fibre-glass mesh.
  • Then I applied the fibre-glass resin/hardener mix.
  • The next day, I marked on the jacket where I wanted the structure to hand from. I then  sewed the Velcro on to the jacket. I was able to stick the complimentary Velcro on to the fibre-glass. This seems to be sticking ok.

Below are some pictures taken during construction and afterwards.

About to apply resin/hardener to fibreglass mesh - part of antenna holder.

Notice the paddle sticks above? There were sticky tapped on the back as a temporary measure to give the wall some integrity.

Fibreglass with antenna attached to payload. See RG-223/U cable going to payload. Note Velcro.
Fibreglass structure holding the antenna. Red arrows point to cable-ties holding antenna

Yes, it doesn’t look pretty, but it should work!

Making the SWR meter

The Design

The SWR meter is one done by IBCrazy who has very kindly shared this! Thank-you! A link to this is here

The Parts

Here are some photos of the parts I purchased to make this SWR meter.

Almost all components for SWR meter

Construction

I followed the steps described in the link to a ‘tee’. Here are some photos.

SWR meter construction - part way there. Picture Taken through eye glass.

Yes. Soldering of this is hard.

Another night, another picture.

SWR sensor - All components added to Stub

Making the Helix Antenna

Summary

The helix antenna will be what we use to communicate with the balloon during it’s ascent.

Materials

Materials are:-

Item Quantity Notes
100mm PVC Pipe 1 metre
A4 Paper 4 pieces
2mm solid Copper wire 3 metres
Aluminum sheet 1mm thick 50x50cm
Thin plywood 5mm sheet of wood
Pipe Diameter reducer Created from wood, with a 1inch hole in centre for wooden rod
Wooden rod 1.2 metre 1inch
RG-227U cable 15cm
Male RP-SMA connector 1
Copper Sheet 3cm x 6cm
Hot-Glue Gun 1 Lots of glue sticks
Solder 20cm
3mm metal screws 4 Used to fasten ground plane on to plywood
Copper plate 100mm x 100mm x 0.5mm
Fibreglass Kit Rougly 4 strips, 6cm wide – total area 0.1m^2
4mm metal screws 4 Used to fix wooden reducer to PVC pipe
Telescope Tripod 1 Used Skywatcher 150mm tripod
Screws – 60mm x 1/4 inch 2 Used to mount wooden rod to the tripod.
1/16 bolt and nut 2 Used to attach ground plane to the Antenna tube

Design Parameters

We obtained details on the design from a number of sites. We ultimately arrived at the following dimensions:-

Parameter Value Notes
Gain 12.82 Theoretical gain
Wavelength Reflector 33.236mm
Circumference 357.29mm Equiv diameter of ~113.73mm
Spacing between turns 81.17mm
Length of each turn 366.39mm
Length of wire needed 2931.15mm
Antenna Length 649.39mm
Spray adhesive 1 can

NOTE: some calculators said 106cm diameter was the correct value. I think that there is a lot of margin for error in the Helix antenna…i.e. wide bandwidth, so I’m trying not to get too concerned about getting it ‘exactly’ right.

Below is a picture shows the antenna part way through construction.

Helix Antenna partially constructed

Construction

The constructions is broken into 5 stages. These stages are listed as follows:-

  • Creation of helix coil on former
  • Creation of ground plane
  • Mount for Tripod
  • Attachment of ground plane
  • Electronics
  • Tuning

Creation of Helix coil on former

We needed to mark on the PVC pipe where the copper wire should follow. We did this by getting some A4 paper and drawing diagonal lines. The design parameters above dictated the gradient of the lines and the spacing. Special care was taken to ensure right hand ‘coil’ was created. The four A4 sheets were then very carefully stuck on to the PVC tube.  I then used a hot glue gun to hold the copper wire in place as I wrapped it around the tube. This was quite difficult and I found it best to move myself around the tube as I coiled the copper wire on, rather than trying to move the PVC former. (If I turned the PVC tube around, the wire got harder to coil it).

Close up of copper winding on PVC/Paper former

Look closely at the picture above and you will see the hot glue.

Then we fibreglassed the copper wiring in place using 4 strips of fibreglass. We figured we didn’t need to fiberglass the whole tube because:-

  • It is expensive
  • It might change frequency more if we use more
  • It will increase weight of the antenna, putting more strain on the tripod.

Here are a few pictures of the fibreglassing process.

Prep'd antenna ready for resin
Everything ready for fibre glassing.

We needed to solder a copper strip in the first 1/4 wavelength of copper wire. This is done to reduce the impedance of the antenna…bringing from about 130 ohms to approximately 50 ohms. A copper strip 1/16 lambda x 1/4 lambda was cut out. Here, lambda is the wavelength  – c/f = c/902 x e^6 – 33.33cm. A picture of how this was mounted is shown below.

Copper waveguide plate attached to Helix

Creation of Ground plane reflector

We need a ground plane reflector and we make one using some Aluminum sheet. A square with sides 333mm was cut out. Then the corners were trimmed off. This sheet was then mounted to some plywood of slightly larger dimensions. This provides safety as the Al sheet is quite sharp. We then needed to drill a whole allow the mount rod to pass through. This component is attached to the mounting rod using glue.

A picture of this is provided below.

Ground Plane attached to plywood

Tripod Mount

I have a telescope (a 150mm Skywatcher). I noted that I should be able to attach a rod of some description to this, instead of the clamps used to hold the telescope tube. This rod I decided can be attached to the main tube using tube reducers…which are inserted inside the main tube. A picture of these reducers is below.

Reducer fixed with two screws inside PVC Tube

There is a reducer at each end of the PVC tube. Inside the PVC tube is a 1.2 metre length of 25.4mm diameter rod. The rod can wedged into place by rotating the end reducer slightly and tightening up the fixing screws.

The rod is attached to the black bracket on the telescope. This is done using two 60mm bolt/nuts (1/4 inch diameter). A picture of this is shown below.

Attachment of wooden rod to black metal bracket

Attachment of Ground plane

We wanted to attach the ground plane to the 25.4mm wooden tubing. We did this by bringing the wooden reducer right down to the bottom, securing with two screws. Then we put two small 1/16 inch holes in this, dropped two screws down and put these through the ground plane and secured with two nuts. See picture below:-

Red: Screws holding ground plane to tube. Blue: Stops assembly slipping down Rod.

Below is a picture of antenna with ground plane attached to the tripod. Also notice the metal pole with counter-weight.

Antenna mounted to Telescope Tripod with counter weight

As one can imagine, this makes aiming of the antenna a lot easier. (The antennas does weight a lot!)

Electronics

We need to connect the antenna back to the xbee module which is mounted inside a poly- carbonate box. This box is mounted on to the back of the ground plane. This ensures minimal amount of cable between antenna and xBee module….reduced attenuation of signal.

This was accomplished by:-

  • Drilling hole through found plane for cable
  • Attachment of Male RP-SMA connector to end of RG-227U cable
  • Attachment of Xbee module to the ground plane

Pictures will be added later.

Tuning

We are making a SWR meter using a Directional coupler, a microwave diode and few other components. We hope to confirm a perfectly operating antenna!

Testing

A lot of thought is being put into how best to test the antenna. Essentially, we need to find out the range. We will need help from others to do this.

Researching Antennas

Selecting an Antenna

As usual, I underestimated the importance of the antenna and the difficulties involved in selecting what ultimately needs to be a compromise. We can’t have everything! We need to decide upon the antenna for the HAB and the ground antenna.

HAB Air Antenna

What we need out of an antenna

The things to consider are:-

  • Profile – horizontal and vertical – we want to to 360 degress around and require vertical radio to be maximum directly below and still be fairly strong up to 45 degrees and not so strong at the horizontal.
  • Impedance – It needs to match that of the XBee modules which is 50Ohms.
  • The gain – well, this is something we can’t control, because we need sufficient coverage (Profile above). It would be great if we can have a ground plane above the antenna to reduce radiation above the antenna.
  • Bandwidth requirements dictated by XBee is 902MHz to 928MHz

Other considerations

The cable and connectors are also very important because we lose a fair amount of the signal in these components, before it is even radiated.

  • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
  • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
  • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
  • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
  • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
  • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

Where to obtain

The antenna here might do the job. Still investigating this.

    Ground Base Antenna

    It is possible we might be best getting two types of antennas for the ground base station. A:-

    • Yagi
    • A spiral antenna

    We consider what we need in these two antennas separately. I have read that during the initial stages of the flight, when the ground station is under the balloon, the radiation pattern is more circularly polarized. Use of a Yagi in this stage of flight would lead to highs and lows (absence) of signal, whereas a Spiral will be 3db down, but will not lose signal altogether.

    As the HAB moves further away, the radiation coming from the HAB is closer to horizontally polarized, and so we can then employ the YAGI.

    Yagi

    What we need out of an antenna

    The things to consider are:-

    • Profile – Highly directional
    • Impedance to be 50ohms
    • The gain to be as great as possible. (VFT suggested high gain was better and that a lower gain (to increase profile angle) probably wasn’t the best way to go.
    • Horizontally polarized
    • Bandwidth of 900 to 928Mhz


    Other considerations

    • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
    • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
    • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
    • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
    • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
    • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

    Where to obtain

    The antenna here might do the job. Still investigating this.

    Spiral Antenna

    This is sometimes referred to as a Helix antenna.

    What we need out of an antenna

    The things to consider are:-

    • Profile – Rotation
    • Impedance 50ohms
    • The gain needs to be as high as possible.

    Other considerations

    • Connectors need to be 50Ohm
    • Connectors needs to be easy to connect to cable
    • Connectors need to have suitable bandwidth
    • Cable needs to as low loss as possible (minimal attenuation)
    • Cable needs to be able to bend sufficiently to attach to antenna and XBee.
    • Cable needs to be 50Ohm to match the xBee modules.

    Where to obtain

    I’m considering making this antenna myself. I’ve found a good website that describes how to make a Helix Antenna. It also mentions how to get the impedance close to 50Ohms using about 6 different techniques!! A shop in town has an impedance meter and if push comes to shove, I’ll ask them if they can measure the impedance for me. I’m currently waiting for some 2mm solid copper to arrive.

    Payload Design

    The payload which I refer to here is all the box and all the gadgets we send up at the end of the balloon. It includes all the necessary pieces to ensure that they remain functional at all times. The best way to describe the payload is with some photos and some commentary. Read on.

    The Styrofoam box

    This is a small Styrofoam box that we were very lucky to acquire in a purchase my wife made on the Internet (allergy friendly chocolates). The Styrofoam box is an ex-Broccoli box. It was chosen because the dimensions are almost perfect for fitting all the components and the thickness of the walls is good to allow the cameras to JUST poke out enough.

    The boxes dimensions are:-

    Length: 385mm

    Height: 160mm

    Width: 290mm

    Wall thickness: 20mm

    A few pictures of the box (with components within it) are shown below. You will notice that we have some blue foam inside the box. This is to provide a cushion for the components and to help reduce the chance of water getting to components and to also reduce air flows that might take heat away.

    Styrofoam box with Lid. Take note of wires and camera.
    Styrofoam box with lid off and blue foam removed

    Sensors/Communications Electronics

    This a fairly complicated part of the payload. It consists of several components:-

    • Main electronics polycarbonate box (which is described in another blog)
    • External PCB – used to interconnect the Linksprite camera, the external temperature sensor and the Status LED
    • Xbee antenna cable

    the components are all sandwiched between special water resistant foam-like material purchased from Clarke Rubber and some other foam normally used to make cushions. This material has been chosen because of its ability to cushion the sensitive electronics against knocks, help the payload retain warmth so that the electronics can continue to work at the very high altitudes (30km) it should reach. The foam is very light which is an obvious requirement.

    Below are some pictures:-

    Cutting out foam for the payload
    Part way through the process of making holes in foam to hold payload components.
    Payload components

    The “HackHD” camera

    The HackHD camera (purchased from LittleBirdElectronics) is installed standalone with it’s own 3 x AA battery pack. We purposely kept this separate from the rest of the electronics to reduce chance of failure of all electronic systems. It is shown pictured below:-

    The video camera we use to film the whole mission from the balloon

    We installed a 32GB Class 10 microSD card, the largest size we can install in the camera to give us about 3.5hrs of video footage. We choose Class 10 because we wanted to be sure that the camera could write to the microSD fast enough. The idea with the microSD is that we can start it up just before flight and if we are able to recover the payload, then be able to play the whole launch from a rather good vantage point.

    The Abrasion Jacket

    The styofoam container is a great insulator and is light but it does not have the strength to withstand a long possibly windy flight, the balloon popping. So what we do is put this styrofoam package (with all the electronics within it) into a ‘jacket’ made out of spinnaker cloth (ripstop nylon). This is the same sort of material used in kites, yacht spinnaker sails.

    We are closely following a design described in the document:-

    http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/cusapps/NearSpace1.pdf

    Below are some photos taken during construction:-

    Sewing opposites ends of side piece to create tube
    Attachment of Dacron loop with 1inch ring attached
    Pinning bottom fabric to side tube piece, in preparation for sewing
    Payload in Jacket - the lid still to complete and holes for cameras/antenna

    This jacket provides a means of attaching the nylon rope from the parachute to the payload.

    Making the Payload Jacket

    Materials

    I have just acquired 4 metres times 1.5 metres of ripstop nylon fabric also known as Spinnaker clothe. I also purchased 30metres of thick polyester thread, some attachment material (like Dacron tape) and one hundred pack of 1″ rings. (I only need 8 of these rings). The rings are the sort you use for curtains. I purchased all these items from Spotlight in Cairns for about $40.00.

    Materials for Jacket (minus thread)

    Construction

    I initially asked someone to create the jacket but was advised that it could not be done on a standard sewing machine; that an industrial sewing machine was required. I didn’t quite believe this and discovered that it can be done on a standard sewing machine. I made the decision to construct the jacket myself.

    I was generously loaned a ‘new’ home sewing machine which I will use to construct the jacket for the high altitude balloon. For the last week after all the day chores have been done, I have been cutting sections off and familarising myself with the sewing machine and trying to do some seams.

    After about a week of trying to perfect the stitches I realised I wasn’t going very well. The sewing machine couldn’t load the bobbin (so I did it manually), the thread was very thick and hard to thread, the material was crunching up and it looks liked the top thread was appearing in the bottom, i.e. incorrect tension. Purchasing a bobbin winder was $129 and a new sewing machine of the same caliber was about $250.  So I decided to purchase my own sewing machine. This has been one of my better decisions. I haven’t looked back.

    The Design

    The jacket design I have been using is from Parallax Inc document which has a lot of good information on HAB designs. Because I am very new to sewing I have cut out pieces of paper and used a stapler to work out how to ‘construct’ the jacket. I’ve realised that making this jacket is a little more involved/complicated then I anticipated, so making a prototype out of paper/stapler helps me to visualize how it will all fit together. The document from Parallax Inc was a bit difficult to read and I did modify a few things, in particular the way the tube was constructed and the way the bottom was attached. I also suspect that I the top will be simplified. I do think that the people who designed the jacket may have made things more complicated than necessary. That is something I guess I’ll find out.

    The opening for the cameras

    We have two cameras and they need to have full access to the skies. We did this by cutting a square hole in the fabric and then using some Birch Bias Binding to strengthen this area and stop the fraying of the fabric. See the pictures below.

    Portal hole in fabric ready for sewing
    Camera portal window portal complete

    The Lid

    I detoured off the design in the lid in the Parallax document. The doc said to wrap some ripstop nylon around the lid and hand sew. This seemed awkward, so my next idea was to hot-glue the ripstop nylon on to the styrofoam. I tried this out on a piece of sample syrofoam and fabric. It worked well. I then decided even that was a little ‘over the top’. The whole aim was to try and keep the lid attached and to ensure the jacket is tight/firm and doesn’t cover holes. I got some Velcro with sticky side and stuck this on top of the syrofoam lid. Then I sewed the other Velcro material to the jacket. See image below.

    Jacket complete with Payload installed

    There is the possibility that the velcro may come off the syrofoam at high altitudes dues to the evaporation of glues in the low air pressure environment. This I guess I will find out, should the HAB be recovered. One can be said, is that it is a lot simpler then the original design.

    Acknowledgments

    I must also thank my neighbour for his suggestions with the Velcro-to-Syrofoam suggestion.

    I must not forget to mention the help my eldest son Jeremy is provided in the construction of the HAB. He provided some fairly frank advice regarding the sewing of another seam to protect the bottom edge of the side tube. I accepted this advice. Thank-you Jeremy.