Category Archives: Technical

Acquiring Explosives Licence

Why I need to Acquiring Explosives Licence

To obtain my L2 Certification, one thing I need to get is my Explosives Licence. For obtain this, I needed to get a letter from my Model Rocketry club in relation to my gaining L1 certification.

It is a  slow process, but important one.

One of the things I need to do is perform some ground tests, sizing the ejection charges. To obtain the powders to do this, I’ll need the licence.

For other people who wish to do their certification, their club should be able to assist in details of acquiring a licence.

 

Shear Pin Calculations

I decided to spend a bit more time analysing Shear Pin Requirements for the ejection systems. I felt I needed to understand what I am trying to achieve, what the pitfalls are before going out and installing something that probably will work, but without the knowledge of knowing how well it will work (if it does work).

Things we need to know

The specific material used in Shear Pins I have purchased from AusRocketry. I know they are Nylon, but what type of Nylon.

  1. The strength rating of these Shear pins
  2. The Pressure differential at Apogee for various flight profiles.
  3. Diameter (min, pitch) of the Shear pins I have
  4. Dimension of the rocket cavity
  5. Where the Shear Pins need to be installed.
  6. The number of shear pins for the Drogue Chute
  7. The number of shear pins for the Main Parachute

Figuring the above things out

Strength rating of Shear Pins

We don’t know the Strength rating of the shear pins. We can take guess that they are between  9600 to 10500 PSI. We will need to confirm this.

I did some very elementary tests on a single nylon screw using brick-layers thread and rectangle angle and luggage weigher. I did two tests

  • Atleast 15kg at last look
  • Atleast 11kg at last look

with the second test, it didn’t shear the screw, but instead pulled it through, so I consider this test to be some what unreliable.

The loading was also slowly applied and this might have led to change in properties. In summary, very hard to test. These tests just give us a very “basic” idea of testing. To test properly I would have to get some fiber-glass and install as they will be. Probably need to have three shear pins as well.

15kg translates to about 33pounds. This is close agreement to the theoretical calculated max shear stress of 14kg calculated below.

The Pressure Differential

We need to consider the TWO areas of the flight where the Ejection charge are going to be ignited. One at Apogee and one ~200metres above launch area.

We will assume that the flight is at altitude that is fairly close to Sea level, so that for all intensive purposes, Air pressure at found = 101325Pa.

We use the Air Pressure Calculator – https://www.mide.com/pages/air-pressure-at-altitude-calculator with :-

Pressure at Sea Level: 101325Pa

Temperature: 25 degrees C

Apogee – Drogue Chute (L2 altitude = 1200m)

For the most powerful motor, we expect an altitude of approximately 1200 metres. This means an air pressure of 88146 Pa.

i.e. Differential Air Pressure is 13,179 PA. This is 1.9PSI.

Apogee – Drogue Chute (max altitude)

For the most powerful motor, we expect an altitude of approximately 3500 metres. This means an air pressure of 71010 Pa.

i.e. Differential Air Pressure is 30315 Pa. This is 4.4 psi.

200m – Main parachute

At 200metres above, when the main parachute is deployed, the air pressure is 99024Pa.

i.e. Differential Air Pressure is 2301 Pa. This is 0.3 psi.

Diameter of Shear Pins

Preliminary investigations suggests the 2/56 shear pins will be the most suitable shear pins for this flight. So we only consider these.

AusRocketry has outer thread size being 2.184mm

Feretich web-site has:-

Major diameter: 0.0860″  (2.1844mm)

Pitch Diameter: 0.07440″ (1.890mm)

Minor: 0.06410 ” (1.630mm)

This agrees with what AusRocketry says. i.e. outer thread = Major Diameter.

Rocket cavity

We need to consider both cavities separately.

Lower cavity – Drogue Parachute

Length: 740mm (29″)

Diameter: 99mm (3.9″)

 

Upper cavity – Main Parachute

Length: 400mm (16″)

Diameter: 99mm (3.9″)

Where the Shear Pins need to be installed.

Two installs of shear pins need to be performed. One at the Nose cone between the Nose cone coupler and the payload Air-frame AND one between the Avionics bay and the Booster Air-frame.

Each set is X # of pins (probably 3), 30mm set from edge of the air-frame ends , each hole equidistant from each other.

NOTE: It is possible that each set will have different number of shear pins. We will see.

 

Requirements of set-up

  • Work on L2 flight
  • Work with other flight profiles (> altitude than first L2 Flight profile). With L1395-BS (Total Impulse 4895), we have a flight altitude of ~3.3kms.  So we decide that peak altitude we can safely fly the rocket is 3500metres
  • Be able to stop premature separation
  • Be more than capable of separation of components without blowing them up.

 

Calculating Shear pin Loadings

Both shear pin installs need resist the pressure differential at Apogee.

We assume that the cavity does empty/fill with air as it travels its flight.  This is not strictly 100% valid, but should be close to it as we are depending upon this for our altimeter to give the controller the data it needs to know when Apogee is reached and later on when we are 200metres above the ground.

Let’s calculate the shear force that the pins can resist. Let’s consider the worst case scenario -lowest strength, minimum diameter

Minor Diameter: 0.06410 ” (1.630mm)

Minor Area: 2.09mm^2 (0.00323 square inches)

Shear Strength: 9600 psi

Force = Pressure * Area = 9600 * 0.00323 = 31 Pounds Force (lbf)

 

Now let’s calculate the force to perform the separation, focusing on the worst case scenario – highest strength, maximum diameter

Pitch Diameter: 0.07440″ (1.890mm)

Major Area: 2.81mm^2 (0.00436 square inches)

Shear Strength: 10500PSI

Force = Pressure * Area = 10500 * 0.00436 = 46 Pounds Force (lbf)

NOTE 1: 1 pound force = 4.45 Newtons and to convert 4.45 N to equivalent mass at sea level (to exert this force), we divide it by 9.81. 1 pound = 0.454 kg. So 31, 46 pounds force translates to 14 kg, 21 kg

 

Keeping the components together

The altitude for this flight is 1200m. At this altitude, the air pressure drops by 1.9PSI

Let’s assume that the air does not escape in time. This is obviously worst case scenario, but let’s do this. We need to consider both sections held by Shear Pins.

Area of cavity = pi * (d/2)^2 = 3.1415 * (99/2)^2 = 7697mm^2 = 11.9 square inches

L2 FLight

So the force due to the reduction of air pressure (worst case scenario) is:-

F = P x A

= 1.9 * 11.9 = 22.6 lbf

If we have three Shear Pins, then the maximum force they can resist (without any safety figure included) is 3 * 31 = 93 lbf

If we have a 25% safety margin, this brings allowable load to ~70 lbf

70 lbf > 22.6 I – So three shear pins is more than ample.lbf

3500 metre flight

Now lets consider the scenario with the more powerful motor.

F = P x A

= 4.4 * 11.9 = 52 lbf

70 lbf> 52  lbf- So three shear pins are is still more than ample.

Ejection

L2 Flight & 3500 meter flight

We want to know how much PSI we need to be sure that the ejection will succeed.  i.e. we want the the PSI to exceed the rating of the shear pins. We also need to have sufficient force to ensure we overcome friction of fittings and any other losses

With three pins, the Force required to break three shear pins is 3 * 46 = 138 pounds Force.

Now, let’s round this to 150 pounds force. This should be sufficient to take into account any losses and additional forces keeping components together

P = F / A = 150/11.9 = 12.6 psi

NOW, if the air doesn’t equalise completely, then we will have even greater PSI differential = less chance of separation not occuring.

Things to note:

  1. The same PSI differential is required at both Drogue chute and Main parachute deployment. There is less likely to be a pressure differential at the Main Parachute deployment because there is more time for the air to equalise.
  2. There should be no real difference in charge required between the L2 and 3500m flight…yes there might be greater differential for the 3500m flight, but this will be working in our favour.

 

 Selecting a suitable solution

So we select:-

  • 3 * 2/52 Shear pins for Top (Main Parachute) configuration
  • 3 * 2/52 Shear pins for Bottom (Drogue) configuration

 

Other thoughts

We can’t just leave it here. I have been bias against just two shear pins because of my concern that it might get stuck. Perhaps these concerns are unwarranted.

If we have sufficient quantity/size of vent holes, we can probably safely assume that there is significant equalisation which means the force pushing off the nose cone isn’t so great. This would mean we might only have 1/2 equalisation (guess)

F = P x A = (4.4/2) * 11.9 = 26 lbf

So with two shear pins supporting 2 x 31 = 62 lbf which with a 25% safety factor equates to 46.5lbf

So the force applied here due to air pressure differential is significantly less than the greatest force the pins can resist.

The bonus of this we can probably go for less Black Powder. If the maximum force they can resist is 62 lbf and we add 25% safety factor , this translates to 77lbf.

P = F / A = 77/11.9 = 6.5 psi.

Using:-

http://www.rimworld.com/nassarocketry/tools/chargecalc/index.html

For the large parachute, it is very well packed and will probably need a bit more force than the drogue to eject. So we got for 150lb of force.

We get :-
Tube Diameter (in): 3.9
Tube Length (in): 16
Desired Pressure (suggest 8 to 15 psi): 12
Grams of 4F Black Powder : 1.18 grams

and

We get :-
Tube Diameter (in): 3.9
Tube Length (in): 29
Desired Pressure (suggest 8 to 15 psi): 11
Grams of 4F Black Powder : 1.97grams   … round to 2 grams.

This is still giving us a lot of extra margin – because we are producing 8psi of high pressure gas, rather than the 6.5psi, which is already 25% above what is needed to break the two shear pins.

I just need to convince myself on the wisdom of having two shear pins over three.

Eventually I decided to go for 3 shear pins.

Resources

Three very hand sites :-

  • Discussion on Shear pin selection with calculations – http://www.feretich.com/Rocketry/Resources/shearPins.html
  • BP Charge size Calculations – http://www.rimworld.com/nassarocketry/tools/chargecalc/index.html
  • Air Pressure Calculator – https://www.mide.com/pages/air-pressure-at-altitude-calculator

 

Sanding the Nose Cone

The Nose cone is moulded plastic.

Nose Cone Tip issue

I discovered after gluing the bulkplate in place that the tip was not 100% fixed, but could be rotated. I could apply a parting force and there was a very small gap (0.25mm). This gap was not all the way around the piece. So unfortunately I should have tightened this up before hand. Cursing myself somewhat.

So what I did was apply CA glue inside the gap between the nozzle tip and the remainder of the nozzle. It is not fixed and won’t move/rotate.

Nose Cone tip bonded to Nose Cone using CA glue.
Nose Cone tip bonded to Nose Cone using CA glue.

This I think should be satisfactory for flight. I’ve posted a “post” to AusRocketry Forum to get their input. If not okay, I’ll probably need to purchase replacement parts.

The initial thoughts from posters on AusRocketry Forum is that it should be okay – but I will need to check this post-flight, to see if any movement. Movement is most likely due to impact with the ground.

Sanding the Nose Cone

I’ve started sanding the nose cone, trying to remove the ejection mould hang-overs. I’ve used Grit-60 Sandpaper to remove these. Some bits were so bit that I used small pliers and Exacto Knife to remove the bulk of them.

Then I used Grit 240 sandpaper to sand it down.

It is pretty smooth, but I can still fill steps using my nail. I might wait until I apply Primer before I do any more sanding.

Nose Cone Bulk Plate

Next step was to attach the Nose Cone Bulk Plate.

I follow the instructions carefully.

Instructions
Instructions

I used :-

  • 24 Epoxy for the initial join. IT is sufficiently viscous that it won’t run between cracks. It is also stronger than 5 minute epoxy.
  • 105/206/403 Epoxy mix for the fillet. It is something I’m very familiar with, has a lot of strength.
  • LocTite like solution for bulkhead screw.

Assembly of the Bulk Plate

 

Below are some pictures of me assembling the Bulkhead with Ring bolt.

Applying LocTite Equivalent to thread.
Applying LocTite Equivalent to thread.
All screwed up tight.
All screwed up tight.

 

Epoxy the Bulk Plate into Nosecone Coupler

First step was to sand the surfaces ready for epoxy. I also sanded areas of bulkplate that would have fillets.

Sand external rim of bulkhead.
Sand external rim of bulkhead.
Sanded outer flat section, where fillet will be.
Sanded outer flat section, where fillet will be.

After I applied epoxy to bulkhead rim and inside the nose cone coupler, I slid the bulk head in. It slipped a little and initially I struggled to keep it fixed the SAME distance from the end of the coupler. So what I did was cut some 5mm tube that I had used for Epoxy delivery and curled it inside the recess.  I used masking tape to keep it in place.

Taped up with 5mm tube to help hold bulkhead at correct distance from end.
Taped up with 5mm tube to help hold bulkhead at correct distance from end.

Then I put it in a vice, to allow the epoxy to settle down and form a strong bond.

Set-up in vice.
Set-up in vice.

After two hours I removed it from the vice and removed the plastic tube. It was easy to move and I didn’t upset the bulkhead position. Then I left it for another 4 hours before doing any more work.

The fillet

Then I went about taping it up. I’m very particular about creating minimal amount of work (i.e. mess).

Taped up so we don't get epoxy where we don't want it!
Taped up so we don’t get epoxy where we don’t want it!

Notice how the masking tape also encroaches on the inner part of coupler, down about 2 mm. This is to try and minimise mess, minimise epoxy getting where it shouldn’t.

Then I made up the 105/206/403 epoxy miss and used a syringe to get it into the edge. I applied this in the usual way and then I used a small plate like tool to create the fillet. A few minutes after done, I removed the tape.

Before leaving it to cure, I cleaned the bulk-head using paper towel and methylated spirits.

Removing excess Epoxy using paper towel/Methylated spirits.
Removing excess Epoxy using paper towel/Methylated spirits.

 

Centering Ring – Fillet

I now need to create a fillet on the rear centering ring. This was particularly difficult to do because the Motor Mount tube is in the way. I could have done a simple dump of 24-Hour Epoxy and created a circular ring of epoxy. This would have looked aesthetically pleasing, but would be excessive amount of weight. So I decided to got for 105/206/403 mix and use my finger to try and create a fillet (inner and outer). Unfortunately it wasn’t terribly even/pretty, but it certainly adds strength to the join. Below are some pictures of the work.

Taped up and covered areas with paper - to keep surface free of epoxy.
Taped up and covered areas with paper – to keep surface free of epoxy.

 

Tape inside airframe to ensure we have a recess - for the AeroPak Tailcone.
Tape inside airframe to ensure we have a recess – for the AeroPak Tailcone.

 

Epoxy ready for Centering Ring Fillet.
Epoxy ready for Centering Ring Fillet.
Epoxy in Syringe, ready for applying to CR Fillet area.
Epoxy in Syringe, ready for applying to CR Fillet area.
Epoxy applied
Epoxy applied

Used my pinky finger to create the fillets  on Motor mount and air-frame. It wasn’t perfect or pretty, but it will be strong.

Gluing Switch Ring on Payload and Nose Cone Coupler

Need to glue two more components –

  • Coupler to Nose Cone
  • Switch Ring to Payload Coupler unit

Used Bob Smith Epoxy to attach them. BS Epoxy is easy to spread and because we only need a thin film it won’t drip and make a mess like some epoxy, e.g. West Systems.

 

The Payload Switch Ring

Below are pictures of Payload Switch ring.

Checking, double checking that the place where the Switch Ring is to be glued is the right spot. Tape is reduce amount of Epoxy getting into places I don't want it to go.
Checking, double checking that the place where the Switch Ring is to be glued is the right spot.
Tape is reduce amount of Epoxy getting into places I don’t want it to go.

 

Sanding section where Switch Ring is going to be glued.
Sanding section where Switch Ring is going to be glued.
Cleaning payload coupler prior to gluing with Metho.
Cleaning payload coupler prior to gluing with Metho.
Mixing up BS Epoxy for Payload Switch Ring.
Mixing up BS Epoxy for Payload Switch Ring.
Applied Epoxy to Payload Coupler, to where the ring is going to sit.
Applied Epoxy to Payload Coupler, to where the ring is going to sit.

Then we just slid the Switch Ring on, wriggling it a little to ensure thorough epoxy across both surfaces.

Finished bonding of Switch Ring to the payload.
Finished bonding of Switch Ring to the payload.

 

Nose Cone – Coupler

Masking taped up just area, so when epoxy, reduce chance of it going where I don't want it to go.
Masking taped up just area, so when epoxy, reduce chance of it going where I don’t want it to go.
Sanding coupler with Grit-60 Sand paper.
Sanding coupler with Grit-60 Sand paper.
Cleaning surface before bonding with Metho.
Cleaning surface before bonding with Metho.
Applying Epoxy to inner section of Nose Cone
Applying Epoxy to inner section of Nose Cone
Glued together - just before I removed the tape.
Glued together – just before I removed the tape.

 

Assembling the rocket

Rocket - all assembled.
Rocket – all assembled.

Gluing on the Retainer top the Motor Mount

Next step was to glue the Motor retainer on using JB-Weld.

We followed the steps that were on the AeroPak TailCone. The last two in the screenshot below.

 

Instructions to install retainer.
Instructions to install retainer.

 

We needed to use Acetone to clear the internal threads of the retainer component we wish to epoxy to the Motor mount.

Acetone used to clean internal thread of retainer
Acetone used to clean internal thread of retainer

 

Cleaning thread of Retainer
Cleaning thread of Retainer

Once clean, we make up a generous amount of JB-Weld and mix thoroughly.

Making up batch of JB-Weld for retainer.
Making up batch of JB-Weld for retainer.

 

Creating a nice thin film of JB-Weld. Getting it into the grooves.
Creating a nice thin film of JB-Weld. Getting it into the grooves.

 

Once done, we add a generous amount of JB-Weld to the motor mount, making sure to keep it to the area that the retainer is going to slide up to.

Getting good coverage of JB-Weld over the Motor Mount.
Getting good coverage of JB-Weld over the Motor Mount.

Then I slid the adapter on. As I slid it on, I turned it around a little, back and forward, in and out to ensure that the JB-Weld Epoxy made good contact.

 

Cleaning off excess JB-Weld
Cleaning off excess JB-Weld

I removed excess JB-Weld inside and outside using paper towel and Acetone.

 

Cleaning off excess JB-Weld
Cleaning off excess JB-Weld

I checked all around the rocket to see if there was any stray JB-Weld. I made sure that the adapter was butt up against the Motor Mount.

Checking for any JB-Weld to clean off
Checking for any JB-Weld to clean off

I left it overnight to dry.

Gluing in the Centering Ring

The next step was to glue the centering ring into place.

Decisions

I decided to use 30min Epoxy glue from AusRocketry. I didn’t want to go for 5 minute and I didn’t want to for 24 hour.

Preparation

While every effort was made to ensure glue/mess did not make its way on o the surfaces where the Centering Ring is to be glued, some does make its way and so I had to clean it off. There wasn’t much. I used some Methylated spirits to clean the surfaces as well.

Next I wanted to tape up the motor mount exterior, so I would not get any epoxy glue. I also taped up the exterior of the airframe, just to help reduce chance of getting Epoxy on there.

I also decided to stuff some paper up the Motor Mount tube to ensure nothing got up there.

Insert centering ring in ~6mm and mark on the motor mount three places with pencil. This helps us know how far we have to push it in.

Gluing the Centering Ring

This was a carefully thought out job.

  1. Internal and External ring is sanded with Grit 60
  2. Sand internal/external with Grit 60 sand paper
  3. Mix the epoxy resin and hardener
  4. Apply some of epoxy to the external surface of the centering ring. Need to be liberal in application, but not so much it drips too much or make a mess.AS YOU DO THE JOB, rotate the rocket so the glue doesn’t drip down to one area of the rocket!
  1. Apply liberal amount of epoxy on inside of air-frame (a ring)
  2. Apply liberal amount of epoxy on outside of the motor mount (a ring)

Remember, keep rotating the rocket.

  1. Slide the centering ring on
  2. Double check the depth the centering ring has been push in
  3. Remove the wire holding the centering Ring
  4. Take the rocket out of the Jig and attach to pole and cable-tie up

Here are some pictures.

 

Taped off areas to prevent Epoxy spoiling the rocket.
Taped off areas to prevent Epoxy spoiling the rocket.
All tools and materials out, ready to go.
All tools and materials out, ready to go.

Never used the Syringe in the end. Used chopstick instead.

Mixing 24 Epoxy.

Mixing 24 Epoxy.

 

'Wetted' the Centering Ring with Epoxy.
‘Wetted’ the Centering Ring with Epoxy.
Applied Epoxy to Motor Mount and Airframe. (Might be hard to see)
Applied Epoxy to Motor Mount and Airframe. (Might be hard to see)

After this I slid the Centering Ring on. This requires two hands, so no photos.

Then I erected the rocket against the workbench, so that Gravity would bring the Epoxy on to the top of the Centering Ring.

Rocket strapped to bench with cable ties
Rocket strapped to bench with cable ties
Photo of bottom of rocket while gluing. I removed the bottom tape about 2 hours later.
Photo of bottom of rocket while gluing. I removed the bottom tape about 2 hours later.

 

 

Launch Buttons

Installing the Buttons

Next I wanted to attach the Rail Buttons. Rail Buttons are what we use to guide the rocket up the rail. A few decisions had to be made:-

  1. What type of button to use – 1010 or 1515
  2. Where the buttons should be installed
  3. How to affix the buttons – to ensure sturdy install

Deciding What Type of button to use

I’ve heard that using 1010 on the rocket I’ve built has worked well for the creator/designer of the rocket. So why would I not want to go for a 1010?

Firstly, I know that this rocket can get quite heavy with certain motors, and the heavier the rocket, the more I want to be sure that the Buttons are appropriately sized – for the weight. But I wanted to err on side of caution. I’m responsible for the rocket and I have to feel comfortable with the build.

Secondly, I know that the QRS club 1010 launch rail is 1.7 metres and the 1515 launch rail is 3.5 metres. When I do simulations using OpenRocket, I get some rail exit velocities that are below 15ms-1. (15ms-1 is approximately 50feet/second). 50 feet/second is considered to be a good around min safety speed. Yes some people have managed to get away with lower speed rockets, but I want to err on side of caution.

Below is a simulation of some motors using a 1.7 meter launch rail.

Simulation of a set of 54 mm CTI motors using 170cm Rail.
Simulation of a set of 54 mm CTI motors using 170cm Rail.

A second restriction I have at the QRS Cedar launch site is that the Ceiling height is 5000 feet. This translates to 1524 metres. With a 10% safety margin, this comes down to about 1372 metres. This means the only real contenders ar:-

  • K1720ST-P
  • K515-SK-13
  • 1633-K940-WT-18A

By having a 3.5metre rail, all Velocity off Rod are acceptable.

Simulation of a set of 54 mm CTI motors using 350cm Rail.
Simulation of a set of 54 mm CTI motors using 350cm Rail.

The downside of having larger buttons is increased drag – and slightly less sleek looking rocket. Also, if I take the rocket to a launch site without a 1515 rail, I’m going to have problems!

Where the buttons should be

I decided to accept the button placement suggested in the Katana 4 Build instructions, which is 3cm and 45cm from the rear of the airframe. Having the button at the rear means less chance of taking paint off the rocket while loading on to the rail. The 45cm is not the most ideal position (not around CG), but it has to be here because we don’t want the button screw snagging the Drogue parachute. (At 45cm, it is within Motor Mount/Airframe cavity.

How to affix the buttons

Decided to screw into 4.5mm holes that were very carefully drilled. I added Selleys non-drip superglue (CA glue) into the hole to give the whole arrangement a little more strength. Don’t just want them popping out. I was careful here to ensure that no CA glue was on the exterior which might glue the button to the air-frame. I read that it was important to allow the button to rotate freely.

I was a little concerned that the glue might dry very quickly before I had completely screwed the screw in. So I did a test run. No issues occurred during the test run.

Doing a practice drill/screw run into some perspex.
Doing a practice drill/screw run into some perspex.

 

I wanted to make sure the buttons were mid-way between two fins.

Ensuring button install axis is equi-distant from each two adjacent fin-sets.
Ensuring button install axis is equi-distant from each two adjacent fin-sets.

The first part of install was to mark the places to drill. I used Right Angle aluminium length and pencil.

Angle Aluminium to help mark drill holes for buttons.
Angle Aluminium to help mark drill holes for buttons.

 

I drilled holes very carefully making sure the drill bit was perfectly vertical. I drilled the initial hole at 2mm. Then used 3, 4 and finally 4.5mm drill bits.

Drilling holes into Airframe.
Drilling holes into Airframe.

As you see, I carefully labelled every area I was to drill, double checking measurements before drilling.

Here is how it looked at the end.

Rear button is installed.
Rear button is installed.

 

Forward button is installed.
Forward button is installed.

I was careful to make sure the buttons could spin,

 

After the buttons were installed, I put a dab of 105/206/403 epoxy on the inside on the screw. Here is how the rear screw looked. Not pretty, but it helps to take some of the load.

 

Blob of Epoxy on rear button.
Blob of Epoxy on rear button.

External Fillets completed and Starting Sanding

Epoxy all applied

Eventually I applied the final External Fillet Epoxy to the air-frame.  They all looked reasonably good, all quite similar in profile and size to the photo below.

View from back of both fillets.
View from back of both fillets.

Preparation

I wanted to avoid sanding the air-frame and fins at all costs. I decided that if I employed masking tape, I’d have to sand through the masking tape before sanding the fins/air-frame and I’d notice in time that I was sanding the wrong thing.  Below is a picture of it all taped up.

Taped up and ready for sanding
Taped up and ready for sanding

Sanding

The next step was to sand them. I had gone to extraordinary lengths to glue Sandpaper to a long stick to sand the fillets. I realised pretty quickly that this was overdo and I did not need along sheet and I did not need a long stick. In-fact, having a long doweling with long strip of sandpaper was counter-productive because the fins, even though they were VERY well aligned, the slight differences in epoxy between Fore/Aft fins meant that the sand paper would not reach all along the whole length of the fillet. The other fin was “in the way”.

So I pretty quickly went for a smaller doweling with about 10 cm of Sand paper just wrapped around it with some masking tape to hold it in place at one end. This allowed me to sand each fillet individually. No glue, it was so much easier.

I used the following sandpaper in the order shown:-

  • Grit 60
  • Grit 240
  • Grit 600
  • Grit 1200

I used water for Grit 600 and Grit 1200. i.e. Wet and Dry.

I had to be very careful to keep the doweling parallel to surfaces, to ensure I produced a curved profile along the whole length of the external fillet.

The results

The results were good, but not as impressive as I had hoped. Near the edges of the fillet there were craters. I couldn’t risk sanding into the air-frame, so I had to think about how to deal with them.

I didn’t keep a photo of the cratering, so I’ve retrieved a photo of cratering in some of early practice fillets.

Cratering on bottom of external fillet. Red arrow pointing to the cratering.
Cratering on bottom of external fillet. Red arrow pointing to the cratering.

I’ll leave the solution to this in the next Post.